Bella Vita Goes to Vancouver

We’re baaaack!  It’s been a little bit of a slow journey trying to close on the boat, make preparations, and get underway during late fall/early winter.  While our home in Arizona is non stop sunshine and warm temperatures (same with our time on Zoe), the Pacific Northwest is a whole different environment for us (both on land and in the water). We had a number of projects to complete on Bella Vita before we put her in the water.  This came with its own set of frustrations between unexpected complications to bad weather delays in completing some necessary out of water projects.  Our biggest challenge came from insuring the boat.  Insurance companies have a funny rule.  They are very squeamish about boat owners jumping more than 10 feet (3 meters) in boat length (we were jumping 20 feet) from one boat to the next.  When I say squeamish, I mean they just won’t insure you unless you have a USCG licensed captain sign off on your competence.  We wanted to do that anyway since this boat was a completely different beast from Zoe, and our new cruising grounds come with a whole new set of challenges.  We just wanted to do it on our terms.  Fortunately, our awesome broker hooked us up with a phenomenal captain.  

Our broker Martin on handover day in Anacortes WA
New boat logo going up! Took a few tries to get it level.

We were now rolling into November with less and less days of good weather.  On top of that, we were scheduled to arrive in our marina slip on November 15th.  If you recall, we had found our marina slip before we even had our boat purchased!  Waiting for us was an incredible spot, easy in and out, in the heart of Vancouver, Canada.  Captain Dave from Seattle Yachts joined us for launch and took Bella Vita out into open water where we began getting to know how she handled.  The power this 70,000 pound boat has was like nothing we have ever experienced and definitely a far cry from Zoe’s slow and easy pace.  Slipping briefly into and out of gear, had us moving faster than Zoe’s top speed!  Twice as heavy and four times fast – what can go wrong? We spent the next several hours cruising around, practicing a variety of maneuvers and talking through various scenarios, rules of the road, understanding navigational charts that were different from the ones we used in the Med, and learning about tides and currents (a whole new set of challenges for us).

Flying north with lots of moving bags…
Tanker delivery of diesel. She has big tanks!
In the engine room to pre-launch day checks
Bella Vita on the road to get into position for launch
Captain Dave showing the ropes
Robyn’s turn at the wheel
We moved to a nearby marina to practice docking and undocking

We had a couple of days booked at a marina in Anacortes, Washington where we spent our time working with Captain Dave and learning as much as we could.  We found a brief weather window and decided that was our best time to move Bella Vita to Vancouver to her winter home.  Captain Dave agreed to make the trip with us for our final bit of training.  This would give us 6 hours of cruising to cover the 76 nautical miles from the U.S. to Canada to learn and build our experience.  We kept our cruising speed down to conserve our fuel consumption, but even at 15 knots it felt like we were flying.  I’m not gonna lie, it was quite exhilarating!  About the time we were rolling into Canadian waters, we were treated to a couple of humpback whales breaching the surface.  That was a real thrill!  Our captain called into Canadian Customs and Border Patrol, and we were told to go to our slip in Coal Harbor and wait for instructions for checking in.  We will be forever grateful that we had Captain Dave on board for the insanity that was about to ensue.

Captain Dave did a live stream to his followers on one of our training days
Humpback whale sighting!
First view of our winter marina – Vancouver Canada
Our run from Anacortes to Vancouver

We finally received a call back from Canadian customs telling us we needed to move the boat over to Vancouver Yacht Club to get checked in.  After much debate and argument over being told one thing and then another, we moved the boat.  Not only was the sun going down, but we spent an hour trying to find this so called spot to check in.  This required navigation down very narrow passageways and in through areas that became very shallow and rocky very quickly.  Thankfully, Captain Dave handled all the maneuvering for us.  In the end, the dock they told us to go to was a) nowhere near long enough to support the length of our boat and b) there was already a boat parked there!  We eventually just pulled into a slip that wasn’t currently occupied and waited for the officials to join us.  The interaction was pleasant but another exercise in frustration.  I thought we had left behind mixed messages and interpretation of the rules when we left the Med.  Yet here we were….back to frustrating interactions and figuring things out as we go.  By the time it was all said and done, it was very dark out.  Captain Dave brought us back to our slip with expert care.  Needless to say, we thanked him profusely for guiding us through what could have been a very scary event for the rookie boat owners had we been on our own.

Tying up to an empty slip hoping Canadian Customs will find us and process our entry
Our winter slip in Vancouver. Great location and views, in the heart of the city
Celebratory dinner with Captain Dave and a member of his team.

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, we spent time working on boat projects and getting familiar with our new stomping grounds.  We are situated right next to a place called Stanley Park.  This is a massive park perched on a peninsula offering miles upon miles of not only forested trails but a beautiful sea wall walking/biking path.  We spend almost every day exploring the various trails in and around the park, discovering new things each time.  We are surrounded by Vancouver’s beautiful skyline of high rises and across the bay we have gorgeous views of the snow capped mountains.  Vancouver is a great walking city which works well for us since we don’t have a car here.  We also seem to have some resident sea lions in the bay that like to come in close to frolic in the water.

Seals are frequent visitors in the local waters

Our first big boat project was to get the slow leak on our dinghy fixed.  We quickly learned that not only did the repair need to be professionally done, but that it could not be done on the boat due to the cold temperatures.  This meant getting the dinghy off of the top deck and into the water so that we could transport it to another location where it would be picked up and trailered to a workshop.  Here is where things got interesting.  Our boat is tied to the pier on our port side (left).  The dinghy has to be attached to a crane that will lift it down to the water.  The crane only swings out to the port side where the concrete pier resides.  We had never operated the crane to lift the dinghy as of yet.  Oh boy, this was going to be fun.  So, our first solo journey on our boat was to undock her and flip her around and re-dock her.  As you may recall, docking is my most favorite thing to do on a boat…NOT.  Next, we pumped up the dinghy (praying that it was in fact a slow leak!), lowered her into the water and zoomed across the bay to meet the guy handling the repair.  Did I mention it was raining?  Seems like it’s always raining here.  We then used a very large crane to hoist the dinghy up and onto the guy’s trailer and off they went.  We walked back to the boat to prepare to flip her around once again.  Since we were already leaving the dock, we figured we might as well go across the bay and top up our fuel tanks (another new experience).  We definitely got a lot of docking practice on this day.

Taking Bella Vita out for our first solo run
Our dinghy had a leak but adhesive won’t set in the winter chill so it needed to go to a local workshop
Off it goes…

Before long, we headed home to enjoy Thanksgiving with the family but returned to Vancouver soon after.  Now that Thanksgiving was over, Vancouver was coming to life with Christmas lights, Christmas markets, and other holiday themed festivities.  We were very excited about all the winter fun that was beginning to unfold.  Our first night back, we decided to explore the Christmas market that was a short walk from the boat.  It turned out to be the night of Krampus, so there were numerous Krampus characters wandering throughout the market.  If you are not familiar with Krampus, he is a horned, demonic figure meant to punish bad children while St. Nicholas rewards the good children (he is linked to Germanic myths).  They are quite scary looking, but we had a great time taking pictures with them.  We were also excited that our first visitors to Bella Vita would be arriving soon.

Christmas Cheer Bella Vita style
The local Christmas market scene
Hot mulled wine and listening to live Christmas music
Krampus came to visit!

My sister and her husband were our very first visitors.  They landed in Vancouver and hopped the airport train to Waterfront Station which is about a 15 minute walk to the boat (another great feature of this city….easy train access to many places).  Dan and I walked up to meet them and bring them back to the boat to get settled in.  We spent the next 5 days showing them some of our favorites and discovering some new favorites together.  We took a ferry to North Vancouver to explore the big Christmas market there which was a lot of fun.  Spent a day exploring Granville Island and the public market which is one of my favorite places to shop local and artisanal products.  We took a carriage ride through Stanley Park, had some wintery drinks at Stanley Park Lodge, ate out at some fantastic restaurants, and saw a Pink Floyd light show at the planetarium.  We also discovered some great music at a restaurant/bar called Cardero’s that sits right in the middle of our marina.  The ambiance here is phenomenal with dark wood interior and a fireplace in the bar.  We were able to grab seats by the fire, listen to great live music, and enjoy dessert and cocktails to finish off celebrating my brother in law’s birthday.  Needless to say, Cardero’s has become our favorite hangout (it might not be long before they start calling out our name when we walk into the bar…haha).  We were sad to say goodbye to Kim and Don after their 5 day visit.  It went way too fast, and we hope they will become regular visitors now that we are so much closer to home.

Don and Kim enjoying the Christmas vibe in Vancouver
Totems at nearby Stanley Park
Horse Drawn carriage tour was fun
Celebrating Don’s Birthday at our local watering hole
Oil change day on Bella Vita. Each engine needs 10 gallons!
Replacing the washer and dryer. Had to get creative with the davit to get the heavy appliances on and off of Bella Vita
Tight fit. The appliance guys weren’t really used to working on a boat so left a lot of the install to us.

A few days after Kim and Don left, our friends Emil and Carrie arrived.  Once again, we took them to all of our favorite spots (and found a few new ones).  We again played at the Christmas market in North Vancouver (much bigger than the one by us and free to enter) and even talked Emil in to showing us his skating talents at the outdoor ice skating rink.  We also explored the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park on the north side.  This place was amazing.  The whole place sparkles with millions (literally!) of Christmas lights covering every square inch of the place.  The cliffwalk is literally that.  I assumed it was a walking path on the top of the cliff.  Oh how wrong I was.  It was a narrow bridge attached to the cliff face perched hundreds of feet in the air (did I mention I’m not overly fond of heights?).  To look over the edge of the railing was truly terrifying.  Needless to say, I had both hands on the railings at all times.  Then there was the treetop adventure where you walk along suspended bridges from the top of one tree to the next all around the park.  The final piece of fun was the suspension bridge itself.  If you’ve never been on one, they move!  They move with every single step you take as you bounce over the river below.  Add in a husband who thinks it’s funny to add extra bounce (he’s the guy that likes to make the chairlifts and gondolas swing as well!), and you have me trying to get off the bridge as quickly as possible.  Despite all of that, it was an incredible place that I would definitely do again (although it is quite pricey at $50/person).  

Emil and Carrie came to visit.
Capilano Park and it’s suspension bridge across a gorge
Capilano tree walk high in the branches
Millions of Christmas lights made Capilano a Holiday treat.
Back to our local watering hole. The Maple Old Fashioned are so good!

During Emil and Carrie’s visit, our dinghy was finally finished with the repair and detailing.  It was time to get her back onboard.  The guys walked over to get her while Carrie and I stayed on board.  We watched for them across the bay, and I told Carrie to watch, without me on board Dan was going to open up the throttle on that 40hp motor.  Sure enough, the two of them went screaming out of the marina and zipping around the bay.  I know my husband all too well.  When they returned, we decided to try and get creative with getting the dinghy back on board without flipping Bella Vita back and forth again.  Since there were 4 of us to handle things, we were able to try some different techniques.  We loosened our stern line and I kicked our stern out into the channel a bit.  With Emil and I on the crane and Dan and Carrie handling the dinghy, we were able to keep the stern kicked out enough to pull the dinghy in beside the boat and the dock.  She was hooked to the crane and hoisted back on board Bella Vita.  We only had one minor glitch in that we hooked it onto the crane backwards with no way to rotate it because of the dock pylon that was in the way.  It was quickly solved by spinning the dinghy around in the water and re-lifting her up onto the bridge deck and into her chocks.  Success!  We happily ended every night of Emil and Carrie’s visit with tasty cocktails and live music at Cardero’s (I told you we were becoming regulars).  Emil and Carrie’s visit was also a short one, and we were sad to see them leave so soon as well.  Our departure was coming in a few days in order to get home for the holidays with family and friends.  Stay tuned for our post Christmas adventures on Bella Vita!

Dinghy repaired and all cleaned up like new.
Back into the water where she belongs.
Emil and I took the dinghy on shakedown cruise of the harbour
Getting the dinghy onboard is a little bit more complicated than on Zoe…

We Have Gone To The Dark Side

If you are a sailor, you know exactly what I mean.  If you don’t, stay tuned as I tell you a tale.  Our last winter with Zoe, we kept her just outside of Rome.  Our thinking at the time was that we would head north and then west to eventually cross the Atlantic to the Caribbean.  A bucket list adventure for Dan! Well, the more we thought about it the less sense it seemed to make.  We wanted to get out of Arizona in the summer heat.  Summer in the Caribbean is hurricane season, so that’s not going to work, as the boat needs to be out of the area to get insurance.  We really wanted to be in the Pacific Northwest (which also has great summer weather), but after doing some research we discovered that the marinas were just not set up for catamarans.  And the passage from Rome to Seattle was 45 days of nonstop sailing, much of it against the prevailing winds.  All roads were pointing in the same direction….we were going to need to part ways with our beloved Zoe.

We knew we weren’t ready to say goodbye to boating, so what were we going to do?  We could go back to a monohull sailboat.  Not our favorite idea after living in comfort on a catamaran.  Maybe we could do a powerboat.  Could we afford one big enough to spend chunks of time on?  So many thoughts and questions were running through our heads.

In February, we were invited to Vancouver, Canada to visit some friends on their powerboat.  We were very excited to get a first hand look at life in the PNW winter on a powerboat.  Our thinking was it could only get better in summer!  They also made arrangements with their broker to show us a bunch of boats in Anacortes, Washington.  This would give us the opportunity to see what kind of boats were out there and whether or not we would be able to find something that we even liked in our price range.

February in Vancouver Canada visiting friends on their boat “Joli”
Heading out to Bowen Island for some winter cruising fun
We caught lots of tasty spotted prawn. Josef insisted we try them raw, fresh from the sea
Bowen Island
Exploring on a nice winter day
Great friends!
Dungeness crab – sadly too small to keep

We spent several days on their boat and had the most amazing time.  We were immediately hooked.  We drove down to Anacortes one day and looked at a lot of different boats that were for sale.  Not knowing anything about powerboats, this gave us a great opportunity to hone in on which brands were our favorites.  We also learned that to be in our price range, the boat would need to be older than Zoe.  We discovered that older boats were just fine as long as they had been well taken care of.  When it came time for us to say goodbye to our friends, we were beyond excited about what the next phase of boat life could look like for us.  There was only one thing standing in our way….we needed to sell Zoe.  This created a fair amount of angst for us.  What if Zoe took years to sell?  What if we couldn’t find a boat we liked when we were ready?  What if it took years to find the right boat?  We aren’t getting any younger after all.

We returned to Zoe the end of March and quickly began getting her ready to go on the market.  As you can imagine, there was sadness at letting our 15 year old dream of sailing distant horizons go, leaving the beauty of the Mediterranean behind, and embarking on an unknown adventure.  The rest of that story has already been told in a previous post, so we are going to jump ahead to what we have currently been up to.

Starting in February, Dan and I spent months pouring over boat listings up and down the west coast.  We tried to focus mostly in Washington and Canada since moving a boat north along the west coast of the U.S. can be a rough undertaking, especially in Winter.  We found one we were super excited about….great boat, great name, and most importantly, great price.  We watched online religiously.  Wouldn’t you know, right before Zoe sold, she sold.  We were heartbroken.  We thought for sure that she was the one (mind you, we never actually saw it in person!)

By mid September, we had found a number of boats that piqued our interest, so we reached out to our broker to make arrangements to see them and whatever else he felt was right for us.  As it so happened, a Seattle boat show was happening that same weekend.  Our broker sent us tickets and told us to come by and check out the show.  One of the boats on our list happened to be in the same marina, so the owner gave us a private tour.  We were really excited about this boat from the pictures we had seen.  Unfortunately, it didn’t take long for us to realize that she was kind of old and tired looking.  We would quickly learn that pictures do a great job of hiding blemishes.

Boat show time!

Later that weekend, we had a number of boats to go visit.  Each time, we left the boats feeling disappointed and deflated.  How long was it going to be before we found “our” boat?  Did we have unrealistic expectations?  Based on photos from the listings, Dan and I had already kind of ranked the boats in our head.  It was going to come down to how accurate the pictures were to the real thing.  It didn’t take too long before boat after boat was falling off my list (Dan was a bit more tolerant to the blemishes than I was…although, personally, I’m pretty sure he didn’t see half of what I saw.)  However, the boat I had ranked as my first choice had not been seen yet.  She was the last on our list to see and my favorite.  We had spent months looking at her pictures and dreaming about how awesome she might be.  What if she didn’t live up to our dreams?  What if we never found a boat that lived up to our dreams?  We were feeling a little down that none of these boats “spoke” to us.  It was time to see our last boat….the boat we had ranked as number one.  As we walked on board and went through the boat, we knew she was the one.  She had spoken….pick me, pick me….and we did.  

Boat slips are hard to find for larger boats in the PNW so we jumped on this one in Downtown Vancouver Canada before the deal closed. Have to take chances sometimes!

We made an offer that day, came to an agreement, and made arrangements for a survey and sea trial 3 weeks later.  We closed on the boat around mid October and soon began the weekly shuttling of boat stuff from home and the non-stop parade of Amazon deliveries, as we worked feverishly to make this boat our home.  I think we single handedly made Amazon’s quotas for the year!  Have you figured out what the dark side is yet?  If not, those who sail call it going to the dark side when you switch to a powerboat.

So on that note, we would like to introduce you to our beautiful Bella Vita.  She is a Meridian 580.  She is 59 feet long with 2 queen staterooms and a 3rd room with bunkbeds (great for all those grandkids!)  Bella Vita has 2 heads (bathrooms) and 3 levels of living space.  We are beyond excited for our next set of adventures.  We hope you will continue to join us as we begin phase 2 of adventures with Two Chasing Sunsets from Seattle to Alaska!

Announcing Bella Vita – living the “Good Life”
Our broker on Delivery day!
Getting the new boat name on!
For little while, Bella Vita was 60 foot long RV on the road to launch
Robyn taking her out!
First docking experience

For those interested we will have a boat tour page up soon.

Next stop …. Canada and our winter berth! Thanks for following along!